OVERVIEW

This game can be played with two or more players. The more the merrier. There is no reason that you cannot even combine multiple decks to facilitate games with large numbers of players.

Goal

The object of the game is to avoid playing a card that causes the running point count to exceed 99. This is a 3-legged "last man standing" style of play. The final player who still has a token (or leg) is the winner.

What you will need

• A standard 52-card deck (no jokers). You can add more decks for large numbers of player if needed.

• Three "tokens" (chips or something but definitely not quarters or dollars or anything like that)

• A score sheet and pen or pencil

Deal & Set Up

Each player is dealt three cards. The remaining deck is placed in the middle. 

Card Values

Special Cards:

• 10s - are worth NEGATIVE 10 (reduces current count by 10)

• 9s - automatically make the count 99, no matter what the current count is (even if it's already 99).

• Kings - are worth 0

• 4s - are worth 0 AND reverse direction of play

All other cards are worth their face value (face cards worth 10, and Aces worth 1 or 11).

The Play

Cards are played into a single pile in the middle of the play area. The count of the pile is incremented by the value of the card played. A running total of the cumulative point count is kept as play progresses.

IMPORTANT: When a player plays a card, they will announce the new running total and IMMEDIATELY draw a replacement card from the remaining deck in the middle in order to maintain a hand of 3 cards. If the player does not draw a card before the next player plays their card, then the first player forfeits replacing the 3rd card and must continue play with one-less card in their hand.

Ending Play

When a player cannot make a play without causing the running count to exceed 99, they lose the round and must forfeit a token.  Technically when a player has lost all three tokens, they are "out" -- but hey, there's no reason they can't continue to play with no option of "winning", right? The last player with a token left is the winner. 

Scoring

Last person standing

OVERVIEW

I learned this game when I was 20 years old and on a cross-country trip on Amtrak. I was traveling alone and needless to say I had a LOT of time to kill on the journey. I would spend an hour or two in the snack car seated at one of the little tables playing regular ol' Klondike solitaire. The ceaseless klickety-klacking of the train wheels on the tracks and the rhythmic vibration it set up would cause the cards to slowly rotate their orientation and to shift their positions on the table and I constantly had to tend to wandering rows, columns, and piles of cards. After watching this for about 2 days, the snack car attendant had finally had enough and called me over to teach me this little one-handed version of solitaire. No columns, no piles, no shifting and wandering cards whatsoever. In the intervening thirty-mumble-mumble years I have met only one other person (in just this past year as a matter of fact) who was familiar with this version of solitaire. I now pass it along to you.

Number of Players

This game is played by 1 player. It is, afterall, solitaire. ;-)

Goal

Play all cards out of the deck.

What you will need

• A standard 52 card deck of cards (no jokers)

Deal and Set Up

Shuffle the deck and hold all cards face-down in your off-hand.

The Play

• Pull the bottom card from the bottom of the deck and place it face up on the top.

• Repeat this process 3 more times -- each time stacking the bottom card face up onto the top of the deck -- until 4 cards are turned face. Fan these 4 cards so that you can easily see them.

• Look at the top card and the 4th card back (currently the bottom upturned card):

  • If the top card and the 4th card back are the same suit, remove the two cards between them and set them aside to create a discard pile.

  • If the top card and the 4th card back are of the same rank, remove all four cards and set them aside (or add them to) the discard pile.

• If the top and 4th card back do not meet either of these conditions, pull and additional card off of the bottom of the deck and place it face up on top and evaluate the new condition of the top card and the 4th card back, discarding appropriately if either of these two conditions is met.

• Continue turning cards from the bottom of the deck and placing them face up on the top of the deck one at a time, each time evaluating the top card and the 4th card back, and following the rules above to remove cards from play and add them to the discard pile.

• Note that as play progresses and more cards are turned face up in sequence, removing two cards from between same-suited cards can create a chain cascade of additional moves.

• Note too that if after discarding you are left with fewer than 4 face-up cards, then continue drawing cards from the bottom of the deck (placing them face up on top) until you again have 4 face-up cards.

• Continue through the deck until there are no cards remaining face down.

Counting and Scoring Hands

• Count the remaining face-up cards you are still holding. If you count "zero" then WOO-HOO... you've won. If you count a non-zero number, then well, them's the breaks. Try again I suppose.

Really? You REALLY want to go there? What's wrong with you?

Well...knock yourself out. Start with this tutorial, this Quick Start Guide, and this Scoring Guide, and then just keep studying and learning and practicing for basically the rest of your life. But seriously, let's play bridge sometime. Call me.

Shout out to GatherTogetherGames.com.

OVERVIEW

This game technically requires 1 additional deck than I provided with my HGK and also plays best with a draw pile/discard rack. But (a) the rack isn't needed, (b) another deck is easy to come by, and (c) this was one of my mom's absolutely FAVORITE games. So I'm including it. So there. ;-)

Number of Players

This game is played with 2 or 4 players. In 4-player game, cross-table players are partners.

Goal

Be the first player/team to earn 5000 or more points. Points are scored by melding cards of the same rank in a book of 3 or more. A "Canasta" is a book of 7 or more cards, and a player/team must have at least 2 canastas in order to "go out" for the hand.

The jokers and 2s are wildcards. These wildcards can be added to any book, but a book can never have more wildcards than "natural" (not wild) cards.

Additional Special Cards

Red 3's are a "bonus". Any player who is dealt or draws a red 3 simply places it into their scoring area and draws again to replace the bonus card and continues their play.

Black 3's are a "free discard". With rare exceptions they are not held or melded as a book, but are used as a "free discard" as a player cannot pick up a black 3 that is discarded to them. (It will all make sense, I promise). ;-)

What you will need

• Two card decks with the same back design/color (including jokers) for a total of 104 cards

• A draw/discard rack (desirable but optional)

• A score sheet and pen or pencil

Deal

• Each player is dealt 11 cards and the top card of the remaining deck is turned up and moved to start the discard pile.

The Play

Each turn begins with a draw. A player is allowed to draw from the discard pile if the top card if the discard pile is first used to create a meld, or if it can be added to an existing book. 

If the top card of the discard pile is successfully played (in a new meld or existing book) then the player picks up all of the other cards in the discard pile and adds them to their hand (which, counter-intuitively, is a good thing actually). If a player cannot draw the top discard, the player must draw the top two cards from the deck. The player can also choose to draw the top two cards of the deck even if it is possible to draw the top discard.

After drawing and before the end of their turn, the player can optionally meld additional valid books from their hand, or contribute additional cards (ranked cards or wild cards) from their hand into an existing book on the board. The player can also elect to keep melds/books concealed in their hand for as long as they like.

The player ends their turn by discarding a single card (if they are able to do so).

Melds

After the draw, a player can choose to lay down one or more valid melds if possible. A valid meld must include 3 or more cards of the same rank. This meld can optionally include wildcards (jokers and 2s) but a meld (or book) can never have more wildcards than natural cards.

In the first hand of Canasta, the first meld for each team must consist of 50 or more points. After the first meld of the hand, additional melds do not need to meet any point value threshold until the start of the next hand.

Each card has a value:

• Jokers = 50 points

• Aces/2s = 20 points

• Kings to 8s = 10 points

• 7s to 4s = 5 points

• Black 3s = 5 points

In 4-player canasta (partners) all of the melds/books for a partnership are laid in front of a single player in the partnership.

As the player's (or team's) score rises, this threshold requirement for first melds goes up. As mentioned, the first melds by a team need to have a combined card value of 50 points or more. But on subsequent hands as the team's score rises above 1500 game points, the first melds then need to have a combined card value of 90 points. Once a team hits 3000 game points, the first melds need to have a combined card value of 120 points.

Note: When a player picks up the top card of the discard pile to create a new meld, ONLY the top card of the discard pile can be used for the new meld. For example:

• If a player holds an Ace in their hand, and the top card of the discard pile to them is an Ace, and the player knows that there is an additional Ace in the discard pile below the top card, then player cannot then pick up the discard pile and use both of the Aces in the discard pile along with the Ace in their hand to create a 3-card book of Aces. The player must contribute at least 2 of the cards (both natural, or 1 natural and 1 wild) from the players hand and combine it with ONLY the top card of the discard pile to create a qualified meld in order to pick up the discard pile.

Discards

A player’s turn ends with a discard if they are able to do so.

If a black 3 is discarded, the following player is not allowed to pick it up.

Note: A player may elect to play all cards into their hand onto the board during their turn, but if the player/partnership does not have the requisite number of canastas necessary to "go out" then game play must continue and the turn passes to the opponent/next player with no discard. In this case, the player who is unable to discard is said to be playing "flat."

If a wildcard (2 or Joker) is discarded, the discard pile becomes "frozen". When the discard pile is frozen, a player can only draw from it if they are able to make a natural meld with the top card. The meld cannot include a wildcard. The top card on a frozen discard pile also cannot be drawn to add to an existing meld.

Ending Play

• The game ends when one player/partnership has earned the requisite number of canastas (2) and then plays all cards out of their hand to "go out". In a partnership, only 1 player of the partnership needs to "go out" to end play for the hand. Going out may or may not include the player discarding a single card to the discard pile.

Scoring

Each hand of Canasta scores the following sets of points:

• Base Point: The value of canastas (red and black) plus any bonuses.

• Card Points: The point value of all melded cards played to the player's/partnership's board. From this sum, the value of all cards still held in the hands of each player is subtracted.

Scoring Values

Base Points

• Red Canasta = 500

• Black Canasta = 300 (contains wild cards)

• Wild Canasta = 1,000 (but nobody ever does this. Behave yourself...you're not an animal!)

• Red 3 = 100

• All 4 red 3's = 800

• Going Out = 100

Card Points (each card)

• 3's (black) through 7's = 5 points

• 8's through K's = 10 points

• 2's and A's = 20 points

• Jokers = 50 points

OVERVIEW

This game typically uses a cribbage board which is not included in my HGK, but in a pinch a pen and paper can be used (and this is one of my very favorite games) so...here goes.

Number of Players

This game is played with 2 to 4 players. In 4-player game, cross-table players are partners.

Goal

Be the first player to peg out by scoring points through pegging and card combinations.

What you will need

• A standard 52 card deck of cards (no jokers)

• A cribbage board and pegs

• A score sheet and pen or pencil (in a pinch)

Deal and Set Up

• Two players: Each player is dealt 6 cards and contributes 2 to the crib

• Three players: Each player is dealt 5 cards plus an additional card is dealt to the crib. Players then also contribute one card each to the crib.

• Four players: Each player is dealt 5 cards and contributes 1 card to the crib.

• After the deal and crib contributions, the non-dealer (or person to the left of the dealer) will cut the deck and the dealer will flip up the top card of the cut.

The Play

Players take turns playing one card from their hand and adding the card value to a running total. The running total cannot exceed 31 and will restart at zero when needed. Players are awarded points for the following actions.

• Landing on 15 or 31 = 2 points

• A pair of cards played in succession (matches previous card played) = 2 points

• 3 cards paired in a row = 6 points

• 4 cards paired in a row = 12 points

• A run within the same 31 count = # of cards in the run (must be a sequence of 3 or more ascending or descending)

• When a player cannot play without exceeding 31 the player declares “Go.” The opposing player(s) plays any cards they can without exceeding 31 and then pegs one for the Go in addition to any other scoring combinations they may make.

• The player who plays the last card will peg one, unless the last card played makes 31, then that player will peg two.

Counting and Scoring Hands

Each player will count points for the card combinations in their hand beginning with the non-dealer or player to the left of the dealer. Points are scored from the following combinations.

• Cards combining to equal 15 = 2 points each

• Pairs; 3 of a kind; 4 of a kind = 2 points each; 6 points; 12 points

• Run of 3; 4; or 5 = 3 points; 4 points; or 5 points

• Flush (all the same suit) 4 card; 5 card = 4 points; 5 points

• Nobs (a Jack in your hand is the same suit as the flipped up card) = 1 point

Additional Rules

• The ace is always low and has a value of one.

• If a Jack is flipped up on the cut, the player who flipped it (dealer) is awarded two points and remembers to say "thank you" because they have good manners.

This is honestly one of my favorite go-to card games, beloved in many Asian cultures but particularly in Korea. Go Stop is played with a Hanafuda (or Hwatu) deck.

Fun Fact: The Hanafuda deck was the first product ever produced and sold by a little obscure Japanese company called Nintendo.

• Visit my Go Stop page for full description, rules, video tutorials, and more!

OVERVIEW

This was one of my folks favorites. Game play is very fast and "slightly over-bidding your hand" generally leads to the most fun (and is probably why my dad liked it so much). Players bid on how many points they think they will take in the hand (NOT how many tricks they will take).

Goal

Players score points by winning tricks that contain point cards and by winning "game" points in each hand.  Each hand is worth between 3 and 5 points -- these points are distributed between 1 or more players. The possible points in each hand include:

• 1 point for the high-card of trump

• 1 point for the low-card of trump (this point is kept by the player who received it in the deal)

• 1 point for the Joker (it is ALWAYS trump)

• 1 point for the Jack of trump

• 1 point for accumulating the most game points in won tricks

NOTE: The Joker's rank is between a 10 and a Jack. It is always trump, and it will beat a 10, but it will lose to a Jack or higher.

What you will need

• 2 or 3 players (three works best)

• 25 card deck (9s through Aces plus 1 joker)

• A score sheet and pen or pencil

Deal

• Each player is dealt 5 cards.

Game Point Card Values

In the tricks that you win you will count up the card point values called "game points". The person with this most game points will win 1 point "for game".

• Aces = 4 points

• Kings = 3 points

• Queens = 2 points

• Jacks = 1 point

• 10s = 10 points

• All other cards have no point value

NOTE: A single card can be worth more than 1 point and the points can be split between multiple players. Examples:

•  if you win a 10 of trump by taking the 10 from another player, and then it is later revealed that the 9 of trump was never dealt to any player (thus, the 10 is "Low") then you will count the 10 points toward winning the "Game" point, but the person who received the 10 in the deal will claim the "Low" point.

• Similarly: If you were receive the Jack of trump from another player in a trick that you win and it is later revealed that the 9 and 10 of trump were both not dealt to any player (thus, the Jack is the "Low") then you will count 1 point for the "Jack" point, but the player who received the Jack in the deal would count the "Low" point.

Assessing Your Hand and Bidding

Assessing your hand is always done from the standpoint of presuming you will win the trick and thus declare trump. Here are a few guidelines to consider:

1. If you have a 9 and an Ace of the same suit -- you automatically have 2 points if you win the bid contract and declare that suit trump.

2. If you have a 10 and a King of the same suit -- you might have 2 points, but you also might have no points whatsoever.

3. If you are first to bid and you have a 9 or a Ace of any suit, you can safely bid 1 (and should never pass)

The Play

Play begins with players bidding on how many points they believe they can take (1 to 5) beginning with the person to the left of the dealer. Subsequent bids following the first (opening) bid must be for a higher amount. There is only one round of bidding -- once you bid or pass, that is that.

The player who bids the highest wins the contract and declares the trump suit.

The player who wins the contract also leads first. By convention, if the contract-winning player simply leads a card without verbally declaring the trump suit, the trump suit is presumed to be the suit that was lead. If the contract-winning player wishes to declare a trump suit other than what they are leading, they must verbally do so before or as they lead.

Play progresses to the left of the dealer with players contributing a card to the trick in the suit that was led. Players following the lead MUST play a card in the lead suit if they are able to do so.

If a player following a lead is unable to play in the suit that was lead, the player can elect to play a card in the trump suit, or sluff a card of another suit (a sluffed card will be unable to any trick).

After the last player has played a card, the player who played the highest-ranking card (beginning with the trump suit followed by the suit that was lead) wins the trick and collects all cards that were played into the trick.

The winner of each trick will lead the next round.

After all five tricks are played the scores are tallied.

Ending Play

• The first player to score 11 points is the winner.

Scoring

• The possible points in each hand include:

• 1 point for the high-card of trump [Always]

• 1 point for the low-card of trump (this point is kept by the player who received it in the deal) [Always]

• 1 point for the Joker (it is ALWAYS trump) [Not always]

• 1 point for the Jack of trump [Not always]

• 1 point for accumulating the most game points in won tricks [Always]

OVERVIEW

This game can be played with two or more players. Once there are more than 4 players, the draw pile begins to get a little thin. If playing with a 5th or 6th player you can optionally deal 6 cards instead of 7 to help even-out the game play.

Goal

The object of the game is to be the first player to play all his/her cards into the middle each round.

What you will need

• 2 to 4 players (okay, you can squeeze in a fifth if some of you are poly or something)

• Standard deck of 52 cards (no jokers)

• A score sheet and pen or pencil

Deal & Set Up

• Each player is dealt seven cards, one card at a time. The remaining deck is placed in the middle. A card is placed face down on the north, east, south, and west side of the draw pile. A second card is placed face up on top of each of these four face-down cards. 

• (optionally) If a king is flipped up during the setup, it is moved to a corner of the deck and another card is flipped up in its place.

The Play

The player left of the dealer is first to play. Every turn begins with the player drawing a card from the center deck. Cards can be played onto the faced up cards in the middle. 

Cards are played in decreasing sequence with the opposite color suit. For example, a red ace can be played on a black 2. Players play as many cards as they want to each turn. Players indicate that they are done with their turn by knocking on the table top.

The kings start a new pile off the corners of the middle deck. In the same fashion as solitaire, an entire pile can be moved when the bottom card of one pile is eligible to be played on the top card of another pile. The open space left by the move can be filled with any card. 

If the middle deck runs out, play continues with players not drawing to start their turn.

Ending Play

• When a player gets rid of all the cards in their hand the round is over.

Scoring

• (Optional) At the end of the round players score 10 points for each king left in their hand and 1 point for each other card still in their hand. The game is played to an agreed upon amount such as 25. Once a player hits 25 or more points, the player with the lowest score wins.

OVERVIEW

It's essentially "Bingo". A designated "caller" thoroughly shuffle a standard poker card deck, and will draw 25 cards one at a time. Each card drawn will be called out to the players. The players will make a determination as to which row-column "cell" of the bingo card to enter the card into on their playing sheet. The caller will provide sufficient time for players to make a strategized choice in placing their cards.

Once all 25 cards have been called by the caller (and placed by players) each player will then add up the point value of all 12 5-card poker hands represented by:

1. 1. The 5 cards in each of the vertical columns (place score for each 5-card hand at the bottom of each column)

   2. The 5 cards in each horizontal row (place score for each 5-card hand to the right of each row)

   3. The 5 cards in each diagonal (a scoring line is provided to the right of each diagonal terminus on the right side of the scoring sheet)

Number of Players

3 or more (1 caller and at least 2 players). This game can support essentially unlimited players.

Goal

Be the player with the highest combined point total of all 12 5-card poker hands as described above.

What you will need

• A standard 52 card deck of cards (no jokers)

• A score sheet and pen or pencil (in a pinch)

Deal and Set Up

• The dealer ("caller") shuffles a standard 52-card poker deck. All players should have a play sheet (which can be hand made as a 5-column, 5-row grid) and a pencil. Players will also need the scoring sheet to know what each poker combination is worth.

The Play

1. The caller draws the top card of the shuffled deck and announces its rank and suit

2. Players record this onto their "bingo card" (grid) in any open cell on the grid. Once placed, players may not erase and move the entry to another cell of the grid.

   • Players will generally use shorthand nomenclature such as "4H" for "four of hearts" or "JS" for "Jack of spades" or "10D" for "ten of diamonds" etc.

3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 above until 25 cards have been drawn and called (provide sufficient time for players to record each card before moving on to the next).

Counting and Scoring Hands

After all 25 chards have been recorded, players will tally the score of each of the 12 hands created by 5 horizontal rows, 5 vertical columns, and two diagonals2 using the scoring rubric provided on the scoring sheet. All 12 hand scores will then be summed into a total grand score. The highest grand score will be the winner.

The Winner

• The highest grand score will be the winner.

OVERVIEW

AKA: "Nertz" or "Peanuts" This game can be played with two or more players. How many more players is dependent only on (a) how much table space you have and (b) how much fast-paced activity you can handle before your head explodes. But let's just say that this game plays just swell with from 2 to 5 players. Then things start to get a little squirrelly.

Goal

The goal of Oh Hell is to score more points than your opponent by playing as many point-scoring cards as possible and reducing negative points scored against you by reducing or clearing your "hell pile" if possible.

What you will need

• Each player will need their own standard deck of 52 playing cards (no jokers). It is essential that each players deck (back design) is easily distinguishable from all other players.

• A score sheet and pen or pencil

Set Up

• Each player will begin by creating a "hell pile" in front of them. This pile consists of 13 cards placed face down one on top of the other, and then a 14th card placed face up at the very top. This pile is generally placed off to one side or the other (left or right) of the player's main playing area. NOTE: The cards in this pile count as NEGATIVE points (they score against the player).

• Each player will additionally place four cards from left to right in front of them. These four cards represent the tops of four vertical columns that will be played by the player in a manner similar to standard Klondike solitaire. You will want to leave room for cards to be played sequentially (alternating red-black-red-black) downward in these four columns as play progresses. These columns can only be played onto by that player (players cannot contribute their cards onto the four columns of other players).

• The remaining cards in each players deck are generally held face-down in the player's off-hand. As play progresses these cards will be dealt-through by each player 3-at-a-time in the same manner as solitaire so players will also want to dedicate a little table space to management of their off-hand deck.

• Room will also be needed for the "community" area which is generally the central portion of the playing table and is comprised of suited piles of cards beginning with the ace and playing sequentially upward in suit to the king. All players can contribute to the piles in this community area of. NOTE: The cards contributed by each player to this community are count as POSITIVE points for the player that contributed them (as determined by the design of card backs of all cards contributed to the community area).

The Play

Once each player has prepared their playing area as described in the Set Up section above, play will begin after all have indicated their readiness and one or more players have declared "Go".

Any Aces that were exposed during the set up process (as either the top card in the hell pile or as a card in one of the four columns) is immediately available to be played into the community area. Remember, these stacks of cards play in suited piles beginning with the Ace (at the bottom) and working sequentially (and suited) upward through the King. All players may contribute valid plays to the community area.

In the event that two or more players contribute the same valid playable card to a single pile in the community area, the player who plays their card to the pile "first" wins. I.e. the "quickest" player's card will remain and score. All other players must return their same cards to the origin from which they were played.

Players will use their off-hand deck and the hell pile to play 4 columns of "solitaire" in their own play space. These columns play in a downward sequence in alternating suit colors (red-black-red-black...).

Players will use their off-hand deck, the hell pile, and the exposed (available) card in each of their 4 columns of solitaire to play cards into the community

At the beginning of play, if any cards can be played to the main board by either:

• (a) playing the face-up card on your hell pile to the community area or to the next position in descending sequence of any column on the board, or

• (b) by moving the top card of any column to the community area, or to the next position in descending sequence on any of the other columns and thereby "opening up" one of your four columns, the player may do so -- and may continue to do so until no more such moves are possible.

Any time a column is "opened up" by playing all of its cards either into the community or into another column, the top card of the hell pile is moved from the hell pile and becomes the new beginning card of the previously-empty column. This is a key play in reducing a player's hell pile.

Any time the top card of the hell pile is played, the next card in the pile is turned up and is immediately available for play to the board or community area.

Once players no longer have any available opening moves, each player deals 3-cards-at-a-time (as a book) from their off-hand deck, flipping the top 3 cards over (in a group) and placing them face up in a stack in front of them. Note that in this process, the third card down from the top of the off-hand deck becomes the top card of the stack in front of the player. If this exposed top card can be played to the player's board, or to the piles in the community area, then the player may choose to do so. Doing so will reveal the next card down in the off-hand deck pile and this card becomes available for play to the player's board or to the community area. If the card cannot be played and there are no other available the player can deal another 3 cards (as a book) and this process of dealing 3-at-a-time through the off-hand deck and playing available cards continues.

At the point where the player has fewer than 3 cards remaining in their off-hand deck, then the remaining 1 or 2 cards are dealt (as a book) to ultimately turn the bottom card into the face-up position at the top of the upturned pile and any available plays are made by the player. Once there are no additional plays to be made, the player picks up the entire off-hand stack and returns it face-down into their off-hand to begin cycling through the deck again, 3-cards-at-a-time, in the same order. This process repeats through the course of play throughout the remainder of the game.

At any time, if the "origin" card at the top of a players column will play sequentially onto the bottom "exposed" card of another column, the player may transfer the entire sequence of cards from the first column onto the bottom card of the second column (as long as it continues the descending red-black-red... sequence. This will create an "open" column which can be re-initiated by the top card of the player's hell pile.

Players continue to contribute as many cards as possible to the community piles while trying to reduce their hell pile as rapidly as possible.

Ending Play

Game play continues until:

• a) one player has played all cards out of their hell pile, or

• b) until no players can make any additional valid plays (e.g. re-cycling through the off-hand deck in 3-at-a-time sequence does not reveal any additional playable cards).

Scoring

• All remaining cards in the player's off-hand deck and in the 4 columns in front of the player are gathered up by the player and set aside.

• Each player counts the remaining cards in their own hell pile -- these cards are scored as a negative value.

• All cards played to the community area are gathered and sorted back to their respective players. Players then count and score these cards as a positive value.

• To determine each players score for the hand, each player subtracts the negative value of the number of cards remaining in their hell pile from the positive value of the number of cards that they contributed to the community piles.

A hawaiian variant of hwatu or koi koi... (See Sakura on Wikipedia).

Check out Chef Jase's tutorial here.

The Rank

2 decks of cards, A (high or low) K, Q, J, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2.

Layout

Each player has their own deck and begins by placing the top four cards from their deck face up in front of them in a row. There should be lots of empty space in the middle of the table between the two players. (In fact it is best to play on the floor, since cards often go flying once play starts.) Players hold the remainder of their deck in one of their hands during play.

Object of the Game

The winner is the first player to get rid of all of their cards.

The Play

There are no turns taken in this game, everyone plays at the same time. When both players are ready, one of them says "spit" and immediately each player takes the top card from his deck and plays it to the center of the table. These first cards should be far away from each other, forming two play piles between the players. Players immediately begin playing their cards from their layout onto the center piles. A card can be played only if it is one higher or one lower than the card on the top of the pile. The card's suit does not matter, and an ace can be played high or low.

Example:

One could play the 9 from the layout on the 10 pile since it is one lower in sequence.

A player may only use one hand to move a card and may only play one card at a time. Many times both players can play a card on the same pile. In that case the player who gets there first gets the play and the other player must take back their card. This race to play out the cards can get very exciting!

Cards played from the layout row may immediately be replaced by a new card from the top of the deck.

Players cannot exceed four cards in their layout rows.

The players continue to rapidly play cards to the center and replace cards in their rows until all players get "stuck" and cannot make a play. Often several dozen cards can be played before all players get stuck. When all players are stuck, they say "ready, spit," and again deal new starter cards to the top of each pile in the center. Play then continues as before.

How to Keep Score

When a player has played all the cards in their deck, they must continue play using only the cards left in their layout (even though he will not have a card to "spit" with if all players get stuck). When that player "goes out" by playing the last card from their layout row, they win. If both players have run out their decks and get stuck before going out, the player with the fewest cards left wins.

OVERVIEW

At its core, this is a very simple game where the leading player leads a "valid lead" (see Deal and Set Up below) to begin the round. Players take turns in standard order "beating" the lead by playing cards that include a higher ranking order. If a player cannot beat the cards played to him, they must "pass" their turn (players may also elect to pass their turn). Once a player passes on their turn, they may not play again until the current round is completed and a new lead is played. Once all players have "passed" in a round, the last player wins that round and makes the next qualified lead to begin a new round.

Strategy Tip: Controlling the lead is important.

Once a player has played all cards from their hand, the remaining players count the point value of cards remaining in their hands and the scores are recorded for each player. Scores and tallied for all hands played and the player with the lowest cumulative score is the winner.

Number of Players

This game is played with 4 players, but can also be played with 2 or 3.

Goal

Be the first player to play all cards from your hand each round. Player with the fewest cumulative points for all hands played is the winner.

What you will need

• A standard 52 card deck of cards (no jokers)

• A score sheet and pen or pencil (in a pinch)

Special Rules and Conditions

• Card and Suit Rankings

  • In this game 2s are the highest ranking card in the deck, with the order (lowest to highest) being: 3s, 4s, 5s, 6s, 7s, 8, 9, 10s, Jacks, Queens, Kinds, Aces, 2s

  • Suits are also ranked lowest to highest: Spades, Clubs, Diamonds, Hearts

  • Only 1 of the cards in pairs, or the top card in a run sequence needs to have a higher suit ranking in order to beat the previous lead

  • 2s can be beaten by a "2 Killer" which consists of a "double run" of three cards (e.g. two 5s, two 6s, and two 7s will beat a 2 of hearts)

  • Example 1:  the 5 of clubs is beaten by the 5 of diamonds

  • Example 2: The pair 4C & 4D is beaten by the pair 4S & 4H

  • Example 3: The sequence 3H, 4C, 5C is beaten by 3S, 4S, 5H

  • Example 4: 2H is beaten by 5D, 5H, 6D, 6H, 7S, 7C

  • Example 5: 5D, 5H, 6D, 6H, 7C, 7D is beaten by 5S, 5C, 6S, 6C, 7C, 7H

• Qualified Lead: The following lead combinations qualify as valid leads.

  • Singleton

  • Doubleton (pair)

  • 3-of-a-kind

  • 4-of-a-kind

  • Run (unbroken numeric sequence) of 3 or more cards

Deal and Set Up

• Deal out entire deck to all players equally. In games with 3 players, one card can be dealt out and not included in the play.

The Play

• The player who receives the 3S (lowest ranking card in the deck) is the first to lead and must include the 3S in their lead (see "Valid Leads" above).

  • Note: If the lead player leads a single card (3S) then all subsequent plays for the current round must beat the single-card value/suit (a "pair" does not beat the single-card lead ... all superior plays must be only of a single card, and must beat the previous cards value or suit rank.

  • Similarly, if a pair is lead (3C, 3D) the subsequent players must play "pairs" of higher value/suit than the previous pair played.

• The player to the left of the dealer must beat the value/suit of the highest-value card included in the lead by playing at least 1 card of a higher value/suit ranking. In this case, if the 3C, 3D pair was lead to the current player could play a 3S, 3H pair which contains a higher suit-rank as its top card. Alternatively a pair of 4s or higher (any suits) would beat any-suited pairs of 3s.

  • Note: 3-of-a-kind will not beat the pair lead. Once the lead is established, all plays must conform to the lead (singletons beat singletons, pairs beat pairs, 3-card runs beat 3-card runs) until the end of the round and a new lead is established.

• Play continues in standard order, each player can either "beat" the current lead, or say "pass" to pass their turn. Once passed, the player may not play any additional cards until a new lead has been established.

• Players can elect to pass their turn (and the balance of the current round) if they choose to do so.

• Players can also elect to "beat" their own leads in order to play additional cards from their hands (this can be strategically employed to great advantage).

  • Eg: If a player leads/plays a 2H and all remaining players pass, rather than making a new lead, the player can continue to "beat" the original 2H lead (by playing 1 or more 2 killers in proper sequence) before ending the current round and making a new lead.

Counting and Scoring Hands

Each player will count points for the card combinations in their hand beginning with the non-dealer or player to the left of the dealer. Points are scored from the following combinations.

Card Values:

• Aces/2s = 20 points

• Kings to 8s = 10 points

• 7s to 3s = 5 points

The Winner

• The player who has the lowest cumulative point score after all hands are played is the winner.